Formulating is Fun!

How on earth does someone make that specific shade of mauve to match your outfit? Better question, how can you get your hands on that shade for your brand?

Maybe you want it without all the nasty ingredients or you want to promote it for an organic-themed line. Either way, let me introduce you to cosmetic formulation labs! 

Pros & Cons to Cosmetic Formulation Labs

Cosmetic formulation labs focus on creating custom formulas for you and your brand. That shade of mauve I was talking about? Chances are, any cosmetics formulation lab can create it! Some are better than others and some are worse.

Whether it’s reverse engineering or clean beauty, be prepared to have your dream come true! 

What are the benefits to cosmetic formulation labs?

After the entire process, YOU own the formula and you can do whatever you want with it. Some cosmetic formulation labs require you to manufacture with them, but that’s not always the case. So, feel free to take that formula and run with it!

You can take it to different manufacturers and find the one that gives you the best price.

What are the disadvantages to cosmetic formulation labs?

Custom formulating can be expensive, especially if the formula you want is difficult.

For example, a clean beauty product following Sephora’s guidelines is fairly easy, but a product following Whole Food’s guidelines is a lot harder which means it’s more expensive. Confused? Read more in our “Navigating Clean: Creating Your Own Clean Beauty Brand.” 

Make sure you know what cosmetic formulation lab you want to work with

Some only specialize in color cosmetics or skincare, not both. Some cosmetic formulation labs work with hair care formulas and some even do pet care! Finding a cosmetic formulation lab isn’t easy because it all depends on what you want.

Our article “Perfect Cosmetics Labs in Texas (and Other Cosmetics Labs)” can help you find a cosmetic formulation lab.

Once you find a cosmetic formulation lab, you need to know the process. It’s not fast like microwaving a can of soup in minutes. Instead, you’re cooking a 16-pound turkey that takes hours and hours before it’s finished.

Cosmetic Formulation Labs: The Process

Below is a generalized list of four steps that occur when custom formulating. Not all cosmetic formulation labs follow these exact four steps, some have more and some have less, but the basics are explained.

1. Introduction

Most cosmetic formulation labs will start with filling out a contact form and an introductory call. The form allows the cosmetic formulation lab to get an idea of what you want them to create while the call allows you to talk to an actual person who can answer all your questions.

You will also be notified of the price you’re looking at. Reminder: Custom formulations can be expensive depending on what you want. 

2. Formulation

Hopefully, the cosmetic formulation lab will start formulating for you right away! It varies from lab to lab, but a good cosmetic formulation lab will send you constant samples so you can give feedback. This process is slower than step one and can take months to complete.

3. Testing

Testing’s the longest step in custom formulating. If your product lists water an ingredient, then it must pass the Preservative Efficacy Test (PET) and stability testing.

If water isn’t an ingredient, then it’s only stability testing for you! PET takes about 4 weeks and stability can take up to 24 weeks. Our article “Can You Pass the Cosmetics Test?” provides more information on testing. 

4. Manufacturing

Once the cosmetic formulation lab is finished with your custom formulation and it passes the tests, you’re free to start manufacturing! The best part about cosmetic formulation labs, they usually don’t require you to manufacture with them.

Once the formula is created, you own the formula and you can take it to whatever makeup manufacturer you want!

Genie Supply as Your Cosmetic Formulation Lab

Remember when I said some labs only do color cosmetics or skincare? Well, Genie Supply has capabilities in both areas! Did I mention that it’s super easy to custom formulate with us? Our custom formulating guide has more information, but here’s a quick explanation of the Genie Supply process.

1. Introduction (~1 week)

We ask that you fill out a contact form so that we can set up a call. After you meet our awesome CEO, you’ll fill out an onboarding form so there’s a clear understanding of what you want.

Then, we’ll come back with a quote on the costs and a final call to ensure everything is said and done.

2. Formulation (~2-6 Months)

I don’t know about other cosmetic formulation labs, but Genie Supply starts right away. Like you would a babysitter, we charge by the hour. That doesn’t mean we’d take up more time than needed, but you’re looking for a custom formula and we want to deliver.

Around the third or fourth week, we’ll send the first sample. After that, you should receive a sample every two weeks! There will only be delays if we are waiting on either your feedback or a specific ingredient.

3. Testing (~8-24 weeks)

Stability testing can take up to 24 weeks, but we have in-house stability testing that only takes 12 weeks! We also have testing done during manufacturing (USP 61 and 62) to better ensure your product’s success.

4. Manufacturing (~2-4 months)

As mentioned earlier, you don’t have to manufacture with Genie Supply. By this step, you’ll own the formula and you can go wherever your heart desires. If you do decide to manufacture with us, we offer total turnkey (packaging, screen printing, labeling).

If you’re in a rush and provide your own packaging so all we do is fill, then you’re looking at 6-8 weeks!

Confused about Cosmetic Formulation?

Read our “Custom Formulate in 4 Steps or Less” for more information

or

give us a call and we’ll do our best to answer your question!