Dry Skin and Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)

Dry skin is a common but difficult condition, which is why moisturizers are such a popular addition to a skincare routine. Dry skin happens when the upper layer of skin loses water. Transepidermal water loss, or TEWL, happens due to factors such as:

• Humidity

• Temperature

• Ventilation

• Intrinsic factors in the skin (Source)

There are several cosmetic ingredients that can help prevent moisture loss, but before we go over those individually, let’s cover the categories of ingredients that keep skin moisturized.

Emollients

Emollients work by creating an oily layer on top of the skin, which then causes water to be trapped inside of the skin. They also soften the skin and prevent feelings of itchiness and flaking. Common emollients include: 

Dimethicone

• Petroleum

• Lanolin

• Mineral Oil (Source)

When applying a product with an emollient in it, it’s important to keep in mind that emollients are absorbed best when the skin has recently come into contact with water, such as right after a shower or a bath. Additionally, applying a barrier over the skin after the emollient has been applied increases the efficacy of the emollient - for example, a wrap, bandage, or a facial sheet mask (Source).

Humectants

Humectants prevent moisture loss in skin by attracting water to the outer layer of skin. Common humectants include:

• Glycerine

• Lecithin

• Propylene Glycol (Source)

• Hyaluronic acid (HA)

Our Favorite 6 Cosmetic Ingredients to Help Prevent Moisture Loss

So, which cosmetic ingredient helps to prevent moisture loss? Our chemists at Genie Supply have 6 favorite choices they recommend for keeping the skin hydrated!

Dimethicone

Dimethicone is a polymer, meaning it is a substance with large molecules that has a slippery or gliding texture. Dimethicone is a silicone-based emollient, and it is best known for coating the skin in a way that keeps in moisture. It also works to fill in the gaps on skin textures that are rough, creating a more smooth feel.

As a non-comedogenic substance, which means that it will not clog the pores. It is suitable for most skin types and can be found in a variety of creams, ointments, and serums (Source).

Petroleum

Petroleum can be an extremely beneficial cosmetic ingredient to help prevent moisture loss. Since it acts as an ointment, it can be much less irritating to the skin than some lotions. It tends to be inexpensive, so for many it is a go-to. Like other emollients, it’s best applied to hydrated skin - so we recommend putting it on after showering.  Petroleum is extremely effective for:

• Healing injured skin

• Chapped skin

• Rehydrating nails

• Treating diaper rash

• Preventing chafing (Source)

One warning is that petroleum can be difficult for acne-prone folks as it may cause breakouts, so we recommend this on drier skin types. 

Glycerine

Glycerine is in the humectant category, which means that it attracts water to the skin. It does this by pulling water from the nearest possible source, whether that is from the air, surrounding water, or deeper levels of the skin. Glycerine has been known to be helpful for the following conditions:

• Hydrating the outer layer of skin

• Speeding up healing

• Improving the skin barrier

• Soothing skin irritants

• Relieving dry skin (Source)

Betaine

Betaine can give a glowy and plumped look to skin by mediating the process of osmosis. Osmosis allows for the flow of water, so by increasing osmosis, betaine encourages more water to flow from one hydrated area to a dehydrated area. Betaine has the following benefits:

• Improving water retention in the skin

• Reducing signs of aging

• Calming irritated skin

Betaine also has the ability to improve tight junction ability, which means that it can prevent leakage between cells. This means that it not only prevents hydration from leaking out, but it also prevents pollutants and other unwanted allergens into the skin (Source). 

HA, or Hyaluronic Acid

As a polymer, or long chain of molecules, hyaluronic acid feels slippery and is excellent at absorbing water. A mere ¼ teaspoon of hyaluronic acid can hold about 1 ½ gallons of water, which is incredible! It not only helps to absorb water, but it also makes the skin more smooth and flexible because it improves the skin's softness and elasticity (Source).

Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that occurs naturally in our skin, but the HA molecule has a very short lifespan and needs to reproduce regularly. As we age, this process slows down - so adding hyaluronic acid to our skin from an outside source is helpful (Source).

Aquaxyl (Xylitylglucoside - Anhydroxylitol - Xylitol)

Aquaxyl is a combination of Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, and Xylitol. It is a moisturizing complex that has two parts - glucose and xylitol, both of which are plant sugars. It is both a moisturizer and a humectant. It works two ways:

• Increasing important NMFs (natural moisturizing factors) found in the skin, such as hyaluronic acid

• Limiting moisture loss by increasing the lipid (Source)

Aquaxyl is a pro-ceramide substance. Ceramides are a major lipid occurring in the skin that help keep the skin’s water permeability barrier function (Source).

Work With Genie!

Have questions about preventing moisture loss, or want to know what other cosmetic ingredients can help prevent moisture loss?
We’d love to speak more with you about formulating products that keep the skin hydrated and moisturized! Here at Genie Supply, we have a team of experts ready to walk you through the process of creating the most chemically-effective and safe combinations for skincare - whether it’s to retain skin moisture or otherwise!

Interested in formulating with us? Click here to fill out our onboarding form!

We’d also love to schedule a consultation in order to speak further about preventing moisture loss. Click here to schedule a consultation!