How is skincare dermatologist approved/tested in the US? 

How long does the entire process take, how much does it cost, and what are the real benefits of the ‘dermatologist approved/tested’ claim for your skincare brand? 

Our in-depth guide below answers all of these questions and more!

We explain the exact definition of dermatologist tested (and why it’s not the same as dermatologist recommended), the crucial two-step process involved, and the three biggest advantages that make the time and financial investment worth it. 

What Does Dermatologist Approved/Tested Mean? 

First, let’s clear up any confusion around the term ‘dermatologist approved/tested’. 

It does not have the same meaning as ‘dermatologist recommended’, which merely refers to a dermatologist’s opinion-based product recommendations.

‘Dermatologist approved/tested’ has a specific narrow definition. It means a cosmetic product was professionally tested on human skin for irritation/allergens (using a specific testing process known as RIPT) and a dermatologist has reviewed and approved the results of that RIPT process.

How To Get Skincare Products Dermatologist Approved 

To claim your cosmetic is ‘dermatologist approved/tested’, it’s not enough to hand over your product to a dermatologist and ask him or her to test it out and sign a document approving it. 

A specific third-party testing process is the first step: (Human) Repeat Insult Patch Testing ([H]RIPT). 

Stage One: The Repeat Insult Patch Test (RIPT)

RIPT is the most common and widely accepted clinical test for the potential of an ingredient or cosmetic product to cause irritation or an allergic reaction on human skin. 

Academics like Levy and colleagues also use RIPT in clinical studies to assess the potential for certain ingredients or cosmetic products to cause allergies, sensitivity, or any other reactions. For example, in this case, the authors used RIPT to test the dermal sensitivity of two cosmetic preservatives: 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol. 

Only a professional cosmetics lab or a third-party testing facility can perform RIPT for your brand. You cannot conduct this test yourself at home.  

Whether you create your products at home, with another lab, or are still looking to source, Genie Supply can facilitate the RIPT process for you. Learn more about certifications and standards at Genie Supply here. 

How Does The RIPT Process Work? 

RIPT is a simple three-step process:

Step One: Preparation 

Professionals at a third-party testing facility or cosmetics lab will carefully place your product onto skin-safe patches (typically these patches look like bandaids). 

Step Two: Application 

These patches are repeatedly applied to the human test subjects for set durations of time. The total test time may vary depending on the type of product being tested. 

Step Three: Monitoring

Throughout the entire trial period, the professionals will continuously monitor the application area for any signs of irritation or allergic reaction.

RIPT For Sensitive Skin 

In most cases, the testing facility will select test subjects with a variety of skin types. Testing on those specifically with sensitive skin is important if you want to support claims like ‘tested on sensitive skin’ or ‘safe for all skin types’.  

If you want to test on a specific demographic (eg. people with sensitive skin), this is usually possible but may carry an additional specialized testing fee.

Once the RIPT trial is over, the paperwork is ready, and the product has passed the test to the lab’s standards, it’s time to move on to the final step for full dermatologist approval.

Stage Two: Dermatologist Review Of RIPT Results 

Remember - once this RIPT phase is complete, although your product has been tested for potential irritation or allergens, it is not yet ‘dermatologist approved’. 

Following the testing process, a doctor must review the RIPT results to determine if your product is worthy of the ‘dermatologist-approved’ claim.

Some dermatologists may also ask for further documentation, including your material safety data sheet (MSDS) and preservative efficacy testing (PET) results. 

I Am A Dermatologist. How Does The Approval Process Work For My Business? 

If you are a board-certified dermatologist, you can technically review or approve your business’ product at any time.

If you have a close relationship with a dermatologist they can also approve your product at any time.

That being said, the RIPT and sign-off process described above is the standard procedure.

Learn more about creating a dermatologist skin care brand here. 

Who Selects The Dermatologist?

Many testing facilities will end the process at the RIPT stage. In this case, you need to seek out a dermatologist to approve the test results on your own.

Thankfully, some cosmetics labs (including here at Genie Supply) will handle the entire RIPT and dermatologist review process from start to finish to save you valuable time. 

The Final Step After Approval

Once the dermatologist approves your RIPT paperwork, you need to retain your dermatologist-approved certification as proof. 

Process complete!

Congratulations - your product is now dermatologist tested/approved and you can use the term proudly on your packaging and in your marketing campaigns. 

Alternative Dermatologist Approval Methods 

RIPT and the sign-off procedure described above is the standard approval process, however it’s not the only method. It’s also possible to have a dermatologist review other data or look at the before and after application results in-house. 

Plus, there are other, more expensive methods to have a dermatologist review your products. 

Why Should I Get My Products Dermatologist Approved?

Dermatologist approval is not legally required in most cases. It’s an additional expense, and although it’s a relatively quick process, it can also push back your product launch date. 

Given the time, money, and effort involved, is it even worth it?

Consider these three major advantages of dermatologist approval and if the trade-off makes sense for your business:

Building Trust 

Put yourself in the mind of your target market. Why would they choose your new beauty brand over established big names that already built up a reputation for skin safety?

Give potential customers a reason to trust you. 

A 2020 study found that consumers rate dermatologists as the most trusted source for cosmetic products. Claims like ‘dermatologist approved/tested’ build trust with potential buyers before you have a chance to establish a reputation on the market. 

This trust signal is crucial for the sensitive skin niche. A review of the literature from 2019 found that 71% of the global adult population self-reports sensitive skin (to any degree), with 34% claiming to have moderately or very sensitive facial skin.

That’s a huge chunk of the beauty market! Although there’s an additional fee for RIPT specifically on sensitive skin, it’s an important step if you hope to appeal to the sensitive skin base. 

RIPT Acts As A Potential Proof Of Product Safety 

Although dermatologist approval is optional under US law (in most cases), Section 608 of the new MoCRA legislation requires brands to provide, “tests, studies, research, analyses, or other evidence or information that is considered, among experts qualified by scientific training and experience to evaluate the safety of cosmetic products and their ingredients, sufficient to support a reasonable certainty that a product is safe.”

The first stage of dermatologist approval - the RIPT process - is one such potential piece of evidence that your product is safe. 

Patch testing is required for all cosmetic ingredients under EU law but not required for all cosmetic products. However, Article 3 of Regulation 1223/2009 states each cosmetic product must be assessed for safety under foreseeable conditions of use before launch on the EU market. Bialas and colleagues note that patch testing (including RIPT) acts as one potential proof of proper risk assessment under EU law.

In other words, the first step of the dermatologist testing process is also one potential source of proof that your products are safe for use in the US and the EU. At least one form of proof of safety is now required under both EU and US law. 

New Retail Partnership Opportunities

Dermatologist approval can help encourage retailers to stock your products on their (virtual) shelves. Some retailers even list the first step in the dermatologist testing process as a strict requirement.

For example, the Credo Clean Standard requires all brand partners to “test for contaminants, heavy metals, preservative efficacy, irritation potential, ocular safety, and more.” This means RIPT (the first step in the dermatologist approval process) is necessary to become a Credo brand partner. 

Dermatologist Approval At Genie Supply 

We recognize that the dermatologist approval process can be confusing for brand owners at first. 

At Genie Supply, we specialize in working with home-to-lab brands like yours. Not only can we handle all of the dermatologist testing on your behalf (including RIPT and the dermatologist review), but we can also conduct other mandatory and optional tests for your brand. Learn more about all of the testing processes available at Genie Supply here. 

Are you ready to create a dermatologist-approved skin care brand starting from scratch? Genie Supply can facilitate the product creation and dermatologist approval process all in one place. 

Choose from our range of clean, vegan, and cruelty-free private label products, or create unique products through our custom formulating or custom product creation services. Learn more about our manufacturing processes here. 

How Much Does Dermatologist Approval Cost And How Long Does It Take? 

It’s important to remember that RIPT and the actual dermatologist review are separate processes with different costs and timelines. Estimated costs and timelines may also vary from one lab or testing facility to another. 

At Genie Supply: 

• RIPT costs an estimated $3,000 and typically takes 6 weeks to complete

• The full dermatologist approval process (including RIPT and the dermatologist assessment along with the certificate of approval) typically spans 8-10 weeks and costs approximately $4,500

Read more about the dermatologist approval process from start to finish at Genie Supply here. 

In sum, the ‘dermatologist-approved’ process for skincare in the US works as follows: 

• Formulate your cosmetics at home or with a professional beauty lab like Genie Supply 

• Once the mandatory testing (stability and potentially PET) stages are complete, apply for RIPT testing with a cosmetics lab or a 3rd party testing facility 

• Take the documented RIPT results to a licensed dermatologist for review and approval

• Some beauty labs (including Genie Supply) will handle the entire approval process from start to finish on your behalf

• Retain your certification as evidence of dermatologist approval and start using the claim in your marketing campaigns

Ready to source new skincare for your brand, or have your cosmetics dermatologist tested? Genie Supply would love to work with you! Get in touch via email: customerservice@geniesupply.com  or call: (812) 329 1105 to learn more.