Formulating with Natural Emulsifiers
What is the purpose of emulsifiers in cosmetics?
Many cosmetic formulations use water and oil as base ingredients, so how do you keep them from separating months, days or even just hours after mixing? The answer is emulsifiers!
Due to their hydrophilic and hydrophobic parts, Emulsifiers remain mixed well with both water and oil, even over long periods of time. There are a variety of commonly used emulsifiers, but unfortunately almost no emulsifier used in cosmetics is completely natural due to the way they must be produced.
This blog will identify our top picks from the most natural emulsifiers, and identify the benefits and drawbacks of using natural emulsifiers in cosmetic formulations.
Lets get into it!
Why are some emulsifiers bad?
The main concern when looking at why unnatural emulsifiers can be harmful is the production process. As discussed earlier, water and oil do not naturally mix, so almost all emulsifiers are man-made (Source). Emulsifiers are produced through a complex process of heating, cooling and mixing, and this process varies widely depending on the exact emulsifier being produced (Source).
There seems to be an endless list of emulsifiers that can be used, and the harmful effect on the environment varies widely between them. Instead of listing which emulsifiers are most harmful, we will focus on which emulsifiers cause the least harm to the environment when being produced and used in cosmetics.
One characteristic of “bad” emulsifiers is that their production causes a large amount of run-off into the ecosystem . Recent studies have identified that since unnatural emulsifiers are completely man-made, when they enter the ecosystem they degrade slowly or, in some situations, not at all, which leaves the environment to deal with their harmful effects (Source).
Emulsifiers in the environment cause the aftermath of oil spills to be especially harmful because they cause the oil to be more easily mixed with water in the environment, and make removing oil from the environment even more difficult (Source).
“Bad” Emulsifiers and their production have also been found to be toxic to aquatic life, as the by-products they produce enter aquatic systems, leading to reproductive and health complications for a wide variety of aquatic life (Source). The key to an emulsifier being considered clean or natural is that it must cause minimal run off into the environment and be non-toxic to wildlife and humans.
The Good News…
There are some emulsifiers that are considered to be clean ingredients, and cause minimal damage to the environment when they are produced. Below we will list our favorite 3 emulsifiers used in clean and natural cosmetic formulations:
Sucragel CF (Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Aqua, Sucrose Laurate)
This emulsifier is considered to be from 100% natural origins. Although it still requires a production process to be used in cosmetic formulations, it is about as clean and natural as emulsifiers get. The production of this emulsifier is not considered to be harmful to the environment, and still offers smooth mixing for cosmetic formulations (Source). For these reasons and more, it is one of our favorite emulsifiers at Genie Supply!
Cosmedia SP (SODIUM POLYACRYLATE)
This is another favorite emulsifier at Genie Supply. According to the Environmental Working Group this emulsifier has a low danger rating, and its production causes minimal harm to the environment.
Cosmedia SP is considered to be a clean and natural ingredient in cosmetic formulations, with its main production concern being that it can release acrylic acid into air directly surrounding it (Source). When compared to other unnatural emulsifiers, Cosmedia SP is a good choice of emulsifier in clean and natural cosmetic formulations.
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Glyceryl Stearate SE is produced by mixing glycerin with stearic acid to create a natural emulsifier. According to the Environmental Working Group this emulsifier has a low danger rating, and its production causes no harmful effects to the environment (Source).
This is because its production does not cause by-products to be released into the ecosystem. It also degrades when released into the environment, making its environmental footprint almost invisible. Overall this emulsifier is rated as a 1 on a scale of 10 for environmental and personal danger by the Environmental Working Group, making it an ideal emulsifier for clean and natural cosmetic formulations.
The Bad News...
Due to the nature of the emulsification process, emulsifiers are not found naturally, and are almost always man-made (Source)
When it comes to cosmetic formulations, emulsifiers that are considered clean or natural tend to be more finicky, and require heavy attention to detail when creating an exact cosmetic formula.
Due to the way they must be mixed into the formula to be effective, the person creating the formula must be exact with what temperatures and amounts are used to mix the formula, and for how long. Without heavy attention to detail, evaporation of ingredients or different blending may occur. This leaves customers with an inconsistent formula that is different in texture and feel every time they buy.
As humans, we love consistency, and what better place to find consistency than in your everyday skincare routine? When using emulsifiers in cosmetic formulations, it is usually best to leave the job to an expert chemist who can deliver a consistent formulation.
It may seem tempting to create your cosmetic formulation at home, but when emulsifiers are involved you will most likely save a lot of time and money by consulting with a cosmetic formulation laboratory. Even if you choose to formulate at home, an R&D process will still be needed to move your production to larger scale manufacturing.
This is because of the degree of preciseness needed to create a consistent formula that will keep your customers coming back for a formula they know and love.
The SUPER Good News..
Is that all of the products in our Green + Clean private label catalog already use "natural” emulsifiers by default! It’s just built into the code of what we do. You can check out our Green + Clean catalog here!
Custom Formulate or Private Label with Natural Emulsifiers:
As mentioned above, custom formulating with natural emulsifiers is a complex process that takes time and heavy attention to detail. As with most formulations, it is difficult to turn a “dirty” formula clean, and can take patience.
Natural emulsifiers are especially difficult to work with as their ingredients and mixing need to be very exact to deliver a consistent formula. Genie Supply can help custom formulate a clean and natural product using emulsifiers, with precise mixing instructions.
As mentioned before, using a custom formulation lab like Genie Supply can help save you time and money on formula creation, especially if you plan to have your formula manufactured by an outside source. Check out our custom formulating page for time and cost estimates! If you already know you want to work with us, fill out this form for a custom quote from our sales representatives for your cosmetic formulation.
View Our Botanical Eye Cream
If you aren’t ready to go through the entire research and development process for custom formulation, twe have a solution for that too! We have already done the hard work for you and created private label formulas with natural emulsifiers.
Check out all of our clean cosmetic formulations in the Green + Clean Catalog. Using our private label formulas, you can provide your customers with a consistent and clean product they will love without having to go through the formulation process. One of our favorite private label formulations using natural emulsifiers is our Botanical Eye Cream, which offers excellent skin hydration without the harmful effects to the environment!
Questions? Comments? Feel free to reach out to us at customerservice@geniesupply.com or give us a call at 812-329-1105.
