Can You Pass the Cosmetics Tests?

28 Aug

Tests suck, But Genie Can Help!

Tests suck. Big time. I dreaded them in school when I had to study for anything related to math and I dread the ones where you can’t study at all (hi COVID-19).

So how do you pass the big tests? Why should you take these tests?

Maybe you want to custom formulate something new for the market. The FDA requires all products to be safe for use. Our article “Custom Formulate in 4 Steps or Less” gives a little insight into cosmetics tests as the third step. Testing when custom formulating your color cosmetics or skincare products isn’t fun, especially if you fail because it’s a slow, but necessary process.

In this article, I’ll explain the two main types of testing, how long they take, and the costs. Then, I’ll explain some other testing you can keep on your radar and how Genie Supply can help you pass with flying colors.

The 2 Main Tests

When creating a new product (or formulation), testing has to occur for consumers’ safety. It’s essential to keep in mind that testing takes money, time, and patience.

Preservative Efficacy Test (PET)

Cost: ~$500

Length: 4 weeks (28 days) + prep time (2-14 days)

This test focuses on microbiology to assess the preservative system in the product. PET (or Challenge testing) determines if the product stays uncontaminated after its injected with a bunch of nasty stuff to see what lives and what dies. In short, it’s analyzing the strength of the natural preservatives.

As mentioned before, this test usually takes 4 weeks. In this time, the product is exposed to specific microorganisms and monitored to see if the contaminants grow. These contaminants are usually: escherichia coli, staphylococcus aureus, pseudomonas aeruginosa, candida albicans, aspergillus brasiliensis.

Water is a source of life, and with life comes bacteria, mold, and other gross substances no one wants to put on their skin. Many beauty products use water because water is good for you and healthy for the body.

That’s why this test is primarily for products that contain water and the preservatives to keep the product uncontaminated from the time it’s manufactured to when a consumer uses the product.

Usually, when people hear preservatives, they think it’s a bad thing. In food, they can be, but cosmetics is a different story. You want preservatives to keep the product for a more extended period of time. It’s not like food preservatives that you ingest, but preservatives that allow you to get your money’s worth of a product that you love.

Stability Testing

Cost: $500 - $4000

Length: 8 - 24 weeks

This testing is both similar and different from PET testing. Both tests involve injecting yucky stuff to determine if the product stays uncontaminated, and both tests look at the shelf life of the product.

It all comes down to one ingredient: Water. Products that contain water (e.g., a cream) must go through both kinds of testing. Regardless of the formula, every product must go through stability testing.

Stability tests try to ensure that the product will keep its original condition (physically, biologically, chemically) despite the different factors it’s exposed to. Such factors include extreme temperatures, bacteria, and light. No one knows what will happen to the product from when the product is manufactured to its packaging to its journey onto the retail shelf to the final destination of a consumer’s hands.

Unlike the stable time and price of PET tests, stability testing is not so set in stone. It all depends on the product and the factors included in the testing. Because of the hefty price and unknown amount of time, it’s best to do your testing in sequence and not at the same time.

Why?

These $500+ tests are paid for regardless of your product’s pass or fail. If you do the tests simultaneously and fail one, you have to start over and pay the price. Again.

Optional Tests

Here are some other testings that you can do after PET and stability. These tests aren’t as important, and it’s normally commercialized brands like L’Oreal that uses all these tests. However, you might find some value in them depending on the product you’re creating.

Ocular Testing

Cost: ~$3000

Length: approximately 6 weeks

This testing is for products that are used on or around the eye area including eyeshadow, mascara, and eyeliner. It can also include products that could get rubbed into the eye accidentally. For example, lotion on your fingers.

If you are producing a product meant to be used around the eye area, it is a good idea to perform ocular testing to avoid any liability lawsuits if your product were to damage the eyes of a consumer.

Skin Patch Testing

Cost: ~$3000

Length: 6 weeks

Similar to ocular testing, skin patch testing searches for possible allergic reactions when the product comes in contact with the skin. Think products like sugar scrubs, moisturizers, and balms that are at the forefront.

CBD Testing

Cost: $150+

Length: 1 week

With hemp beauty on the rise, CBD testing analyzes the THC or cannabinoid in all CBD products. The hemp beauty industry has a history with mislabeling their products and ingredients list which makes this test important. The cost of the tests varies based on the lab used, what is detected and to what level.

Generally, the test will detect CBC, THC and other minor cannabinoids.

Heavy Metal Testing

Cost: $150+

Length: approx. 1 week

This kind of testing is most popular in hemp products and lipsticks, to determine residual heavy metals left in the formula. Long story short, you want to sing heavy metal, not coat it on your lips.

Genie Supply & Testing

At Genie Supply, we offer in-house testing, but are not an ISO accredited testing lab. The difference is that testing labs are ISO accredited solely to perform testing. We simply perform basic tests to help give more information faster, so that you can make the appropriate moves with your company.

We offer in-house stability and pH testing. We offer 3rd party ISO accredited tests for everything shown above.

Our stability testing takes about 12 weeks. At 45 ℃, we keep the product in a clear glass jar and include exposure to light and extreme temperature (45C) for the duration of 12 weeks. A product that sits in 45℃ for one day is equal to five days on the shelf life. 8 weeks is equal to a year and 12 weeks is equal to 2 years.

Although we’re not ISO certified, we still go by ISO protocols. Because of that, some of our clients prefer third party testing.

Our price for stability testing is free if you’re custom formulating with us or $400 for the 12 week test a la carte. PET testing is always 3rd party, so it’s always billed, and approximately $500/SKU.

USP 61 and 62 testing are done during the manufacturing process. It’s sort of like stability testing but done during the manufacturing part to ensure the product’s wellness.