Formulating A Red 40 Free Self Tanner [Full Guide]
Formulating a Red 40 free self tanner is a must for any clean beauty brand – but it’s no easy task.
From understanding the regulation landscape to finding the most effective Red 40 alternatives, creating a clean self-tanning product can be a lengthy and expensive hassle.
If you are struggling with the process, Genie Supply is here to help!
Our in-depth guide below outlines Red 40’s role in self-tanning products. We discuss the evolving regulatory landscape around this ingredient, and the best alternatives to Red 40 to create a truly clean self-tan.
What Is Red 40?
As explained by Ramesh and colleagues, Allura Red (E129) / FD&C Red 40 is a synthetic dye made from petroleum. Although other red dyes (notably carmine) are derived from insects, this is not the case for Red 40.
Also known as CI 16035, Red 40 is a popular additive that is commonly used in both food and cosmetics. Researchers Lee et al. estimate that 94% of the US population 2 years old and above consume Red 40.
Not only is this coloring used to make self-tanning products, but it’s also found in face makeup, eye makeup, lipstick, nail polish, and personal care products like toothpaste.
According to UL Prospector, it is favored by manufacturers for its color consistency, dispersibility, and chemical and microbiological purity levels.
Is Red 40 Banned In The US Or The EU?
Red 40 is a controversial ingredient.
Although there is strong concern over the safety of Red 40 at higher percentages in food or cosmetic formulas, there is mixed evidence of its effects at (more typical) low levels of consumption.
Due to this uncertainty, health and safety government organizations like the FDA frequently reassess their stance on Red 40 and other color additives based on health risk levels identified in the most up-to-date and credible research:
As of 2024, Red 40 is currently FDA-approved in the US for use in cosmetics, including generally (which includes lipsticks), for the eye area, and overall external use.
Listed under the code CI 16035, Red 40 is also permitted for use in cosmetics in the EU under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (subject to the purity criteria as set out in Commission Directive 95/45/EC [E 129]).
Notably, Red 40 was banned in Denmark, Belgium, France, Germany, Switzerland, Sweden, Austria, and Norway, until these countries adopted an EU-wide food additive policy which reversed the ban.
Understanding this evolving legal landscape is crucial for beauty brands and self tanner manufacturers.
Although tanning lotions and mousses that contain Red 40 are legally permitted today, there’s no guarantee that this approval will continue in the future.
Future Red 40 bans or percentage restrictions could lead to self tan product recalls, hefty reformulation costs, and the loss of trust with your target market.
At Genie Supply, we recognize that regulatory compliance is often difficult for small beauty brands. That’s why we offer consultancy services for businesses like yours. Learn more about our consultancy services on our website here.
The Latest Evidence On The Harmful Effects Of Red 40
While research on the health impact of Red 40 in self-tanners specifically is minimal, there is a growing body of literature that sounds alarm bells over its general use in food or cosmetics.
In particular, there is a renewed concern that Red 40 could trigger allergies, exacerbate hyperactivity issues in children, and could potentially be linked to certain diseases:
A 2012 analysis linked Red 40 (among other dyes) to allergic reactions.
In 2021, the state of California (in collaboration with several universities) reported that clinical trials show common food dyes (including Red 40) are linked to hyperactivity and other neurobehavioral issues in some children.
2022 research by Wang and colleagues found that Red 40 can trigger inflammatory bowel diseases in mice.
These studies (plus any newer analysis that comes to light) could impact the FDA and the European Commission’s stance on the use of Red 40 and other food dyes in cosmetics in the future.
With this renewed concern over Red 40’s safety risks, how have health watchdogs in the cosmetics industry responded?
Based on the available evidence, The Environmental Working Group (EWG) places Red 40 at 3-4 on the official EWG scale. This means its use is recommended to be restricted and cosmetic products should not contain Red 40 without adequate substantiation.
As such, beauty brands like yours with a focus on clean ingredients should avoid using Red 40 if possible.
Before we talk alternatives, let’s discuss why Red 40 is used in self tanner in the first place, and if it is possible to formulate a high-performing fake tan product without this dye.
Why Is Red 40 Added To Self Tanner?
Good news for your clean beauty brand: Red 40 is not the ‘star’ active ingredient that causes self-tanning formulas to develop into a false tan on the skin.
Although Red 40 can also sometimes alter the undertone of self-tanners, it is most commonly added to self-tanning formulas to produce a wash-off ‘guide’ color. The dye provides a bronze tint to the lotion or mousse, allowing customers to apply it evenly all over the skin for a streak-free false tan.
While formulating to include a guide color is recommended as it helps reduce the chance of an uneven application, guide colors are optional. Some self-tan products apply completely colorless on the skin.
Given all the controversy surrounding Red 40, what other dye options are there for self-tanning formulas that include a guide color?
How Clean Beauty Brands Can Create A Red 40 Free Self Tanner Formula
Although the impact of Red 40 isn’t fully clear, your focus as a clean beauty brand should be avoiding any potential health risks.
Play it safe and use a different dye instead.
But what are the top safe alternatives to Red 40?
Carmine seems like the obvious substitute for Red 40. However, as noted by Johnson et al., carmine is not favored by clean and ethical beauty brands because it can trigger allergies and is not a vegan ingredient.
Instead, consider using carotenoids in place of Red 40.
Carotenoids
As outlined by Grisel and colleagues, carotenoids are antioxidants that are found in plants and can act as natural dyes thanks to their vibrant red, pink, yellow, and orange colors.
Carotenoids are a marketable choice for self-tanner products as they are already associated with tanning:
For example, Howard and colleagues explain that beta-carotene is commonly added to (dangerous) tanning pills, thanks to its supposed photoprotection properties (protecting the skin from UV damage and delaying the onset of sunburn).
A 2011 study found that consuming large quantities of beta-carotene can result in a more healthy and attractive ‘yellowish’ tint to the skin.
Examples of natural sources of carotenoids include tomatoes, carrots, paprika, rosehip, and saffron.
Anthocyanins
Carotenoids are not the only Red 40 alternative:
Anthocyanins are another natural dye option for self-tanner products. As explained in a 2021 review, anthocyanins are polyphenols that are found in plants like blueberries, blackcurrants, raspberries, wild roses, elderberries, and red grapes.
Plus, research from India in 2012 outlines the application of beetroot powder as a natural colorant in red color cosmetics.
Collaborate With A Professional Manufacturer To Create A Red 40 Free Tanner
All of these alternatives sound great… So what's the catch?
The bottom line: Red 40 is cheaper and easier to work with compared to many natural alternatives.
For example, although anthocyanins can be used as dyes in food and cosmetics, it’s difficult to maintain their color stability as they will degrade over time.
Formulating an effective Red 40-free self-tan is not an easy (or inexpensive) task for small at-home beauty brands.
This is why it’s essential to collaborate with a professional cosmetic lab that can create clean, safe, and effective alternatives to petroleum-based dyes.
Professional manufacturers employ highly trained chemists who focus on research and development to create clean cosmetic formulations that work just as well as non-clean alternatives.
Looking to create a clean and effective self-tanner from scratch? Or maybe you already have a winning self-tanner formula, but are hoping to ditch the Red 40? At Genie Supply, we specialize in formulating innovative clean beauty and are experts at turning ‘dirty’ cosmetic formulas clean! Learn more about our clean custom formulating capabilities on our website here.
A Clean Formula Requires More Than Removing Red 40
To build and maintain a truly clean brand, you need to consider all of the ingredients in your products (not just Red 40) and how they could impact the safety of your customers.
When it comes to self-tanning products, there is some concern around the safety of the most important ‘tanning’ ingredient – Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), specifically the concentration of DHA in formulas.
Following an amendment to Annexes II and III of Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 in 2021, the EU banned self-tanning products containing more than 10% Dihydroxyacetone.
This had a huge impact on the industry, forcing brands to either reformulate their self-tanning products or leave the EU market completely.
To stay on the safe side, consider combining your DHA self-tan formula with erythrulose to reduce the overall percentage of DHA. As outlined by Howard and colleagues, erythrulose is a natural ingredient found in red raspberries and performs similarly to DHA in false tans.
However, erythrulose produces a slightly more red-toned tan than DHA. Although it takes longer to develop on the skin and does not last as long on its own, erythrulose helps self-tanners last longer, fade better, and result in a better color when combined with DHA in the correct proportions.
In sum, creating a Red 40 free self tanner involves the following steps:
Keeping up to date with the latest regulations on color additives
Understanding the purpose of Red 40 in self tan formulas
Considering alternatives including carotenoids and anthocyanins
Collaborating with a professional lab to formulate a Red 40 free false tanner
Evaluating the other ingredients in the self tan to ensure it is a completely clean formula
Looking to formulate your own innovative and clean Red 40-free self-tanner? At Genie Supply, we have the capabilities to formulate high-quality clean beauty products like self-tan from scratch.
Learn more about our services by calling: (812) 329-1105 or emailing: customerservice@geniesupply.com
